Kevo Strict Nature Reserve in Utsjoki is one of the most rugged hiking destinations in Lapland, Finland. In the heart of the nature reserve there's almost a 40 km canyon with River Kevojoki flowing in the middle. You can explore the beautiful nature reserve by hiking either Kuivi ring route or Kevo route. The scenic 63 km Kevo Trail runs through the nature reserve descending several times at the bottom of the canyon and ascending back to the fell highland. There are many ravines and waterfalls of which Fiellu waterfall is the most known. The trails are marked and challenging due to the variation of elevation and river crossings. I made a three-nights hike on the Kevo Trail in September to see the autumn colors.
Getting to Kevo Nature Reserve
You can reach Kevo Strict Nature Reserve by bus or by car. From Ivalo airport there's a bus connection to Ivalo and from Ivalo, you can take a bus to both starting points Lake Kenesjärvi and Sulaoja. Car transfer services are also available in the area.
When you start the hike from Sulaoja, you'll first walk a couple of kilometers on a nature trail and then around ten kilometers in Paistunturi wilderness area before you arrive at Kevo Nature Reserve. The 63 km Kevo Trail is easier when you start from Sulaoja. If you start the hike from Lake Kenesjärvi, you'll reach Kevo Nature Reserve after a kilometer's hike. The signposts' texts on the trails may be different from what you've got on the map.
Restrictions in Kevo Nature Reserve
The Kevo Nature Reserve is divided into a canyon area and a fell area with different instructions and limitations. In the canyon area, moving is only allowed from June 15 to October 15, and only on marked trails. Skiing is allowed from mid-October until the end of March.
In the fell area, moving is allowed from the beginning of May to mid-October on signposted trails. Skiing is allowed everywhere from mid-October to the end of May. The areas are marked on maps. Picking berries and any kind of fishing is forbidden in the Kevo Nature Reserve.
First night in Kevo: From Lake Kenesjärvi (Ganešjávri) to Tapiola Goahti
I hopped off the bus at 3 PM by the Lake Kenesjärvi parking area. There was a dry toilet and a lot of folks that had hiked from Sulaoja in rain. It was late afternoon, so I got myself moving right away. The first steps led me into a forest, climbing a rocky hill. The red and yellow leaves were sparkling from rain drops. I was exhausted from traveling, but I felt joy of finally being in Lapland.
Everything was amazingly orange and yellow. I entered into another forest through a reindeer gate. The forest turned into open field and mire. I arrived at the first tenting area, Silkeája and saw two women pitching their tent. I had read that Silkeája was not that nice looking spot, but I thought it was alright. Only a bit old table and benches.
The mire and narrow isthmus were covered with duckboards. The trail was even and walking easy. Soon I was in a forest again. I ascended a long but gentle slope to Guoikgáhritája's fireplace. I chatted with a couple who were fascinated about the autumn colors of Kevo. They gave a tip of a scenery that was right behind the forest's corner. It sure gave an idea that there would be a lot of beauty in the coming three days. I climbed down the first long stairs into the canyon forest.
It was getting late when I arrived at the river and the first wading place. I could have left the river crossing until morning, as there was a tenting are right next to it, Beahcelávojávrrit. In the darkening night and light rain the river looked a bit scary. I saw two men on the other side of the river changing their boots, and shouted at them to ask if it was deep in the river. The answer was " it's not too bad, water below knees". I rolled my hiking thights to my knees, opened up the belt of my backpack and crapped the wire rope.
The deepest spot was right in the beginning, water reached just above my knees. Note to myself: if a guy who is 15-20 cm taller than me says that water reached his calf, it's likely that it reaches my knees and hiking thigts. Well, at least the bottom of the river was even and the stream quite weak. I survived the wading easily with the wire rope. The next tenting area was two kilometers away.
It was so quiet in the fell birch forest. The trail was going a bit up and down, the rocks were slippery. Luckily there were some ropes as handrails to prevent falling from the cliff. I arrived at Tapiola Goahti around 9:30 PM. There were tents everywhere, but I finally found a free spot under some birch trees.
The first night's hiking had been 12 km and five hours. My sports watch is on all the time, so it records all the toilet visits and moving my camera tripod etc. The stretch from Lake Kenesjärvi to Tapiola Goahti is Actually 10 kilometers.
From Tapiola Goahti to Lake Roajášjávri: cold swimming in River Kevojoki
I had thought of eating my oats by the pretty cape next to the river, but it was occupied. I had breakfast by my tent instead and got myself back on trails. Most of the tents were still there and people were setting up fires. The beach looked nice and great for cold swimming. The river was flowing still and reflecting the autumn colors.
The trail turned into a rock field with steeper slopes. It was framed by lush red bilberry leaves. The weather was my absolute favourite: a bit cloudy and not much wind. Just after one kilometer of rocks, I arrived at Gaskkamuš Njaggaljávri. It was also crowded. The tenting area looked quite small but the sceneriy was nice. I continued climbing up maybe the longest and steepest stairs I had ever seen. In the middle of the stairs there was a bench for taking a break and admire the views.
The trail took me up to fell highlands. It was suddenly windy and cold. The rocky trail meandered through wonderful autumn colors. The River Kevojoki disappeared from my sight, the fell highland continued far to the horizon. I climbed down stairs to River Njaggaljohka at the bottom of a ravine, and crossed the stream by hopping on rocks. It's lovely to drink straight from the clean streams whenever you feel thirsty. Back up walking the fell highland a couple of trailrunners passed by. Not a bad idea, I thought.
Next the trail descended to a Lappish hut. The sun was shining and sparkling in the surface of a small lake. The Lapp hut was reserved so I spread my kitchen to the table outside. Gamajotnsuohpášája seemed like a nice spot for a break, and the hut would provide shelter on a rainy day. The next tenting area, Gamajotnjálmmeluoppal, was only a kilometer and a half away. I walked first in a fell highland scenery, and then entered a forestry area. I saw a lot of reindeers under the trees. A pretty waterfall was flowing on a boulder wall. Then the trail run through a fell birch forest and arrived at a wading spot by the river.
I changed my hiking boots to sandals and rolled up my thights. The river didn't seem very deep. I took a few wire ropes as there were only three left on the other side. Photographing yourself wading is a bit challenging but I decided to give it a shot. The wading was easy, the weather was nice, and there were nobody there. I managed to drop my remote in the river. Luckily I was fast enough to rescue the gadget before the stream washed it away or the battery got wet. No more wading pics then.
First the trail went up and continued in a lush forest by the river for a couple of kilometers. After the short stretch, I arrived at the next wading spot. This would be the last crossing of River Kevojoki. Other people arrived at the spot too, to both sides. I was the first one ready to go, although I still got a bit excited about river crossings. This wading was the trickiest of all the River Kevojoki crossings. There were bigger rocks in the bottom and the bottom was extremely slippery. I got to the other side just fine, but a guy who left after me from the other side stumbled and struggled a long time to get up - even though he had the wire rope.
Just after a fifteen minutes walk, I arrived at Lake Roajášjávri. It was ten past five PM. The empty tenting area looked really tempting. It was right by the river and the late afternoon sun was shining. I could go cold swimming and set up a fire in no rush. I had only hiked 14 kilometers which was way too short for a day's hike, but I didn't want to camp at Fiellu waterfall in a tent village. And I didn't have time to hike any further either. At this point I pondered that I'd like more hiking on trails where you can camp where you like. I decided to stay at Lake Roajášjávri.
I pitched my tent on the most even spot I could find with the most beautiful views to the river. It was not very even and the views consisted mostly of branches. I went to the fireplace to make some lunch. On my way to the firewood shelter, I noticed a pile of wood beds for tents. I brought the firewood to the fireplace and dragged the wood beds next to the river bank. It was the first time ever I have pitched my tent twice. But what else would you do with too much time?
I put on bikinis and took a dip into the ice cold water. The bottom was rocky and steep and deep and the stream was strong, so I just washed myself fast. But it was still a freezing cold short moment. I sat by the fire in a down coat and had dinner. I decided to sleep early at tten, because I had a long way to hike the next day. I was just about to put down the fire, when a group of people arrived at the site from the darkness. They were happy there was a ready fire. But I was a bit upset that they talked and laughed really loud near my tent until 1 AM. After this experience, I've never pitched my tent even near any fireplace or any place where there could be other people making noise in the middle of the night.
Kevo trail highlights: Fiellu waterfall, Kevo canyon and Aurora Borealis
The third day consisted of hiking from Lake Roajášjávri to Lake Luomusjärvet. The most beautiful sights of Kevo Nature Reserve are located along this stretch, and it was also my longest day hike, 31 km. I wanted to be early on trails, but somehow I'm extremely slow in the mornings. I woke up at 6 AM, I was hiking at 8 AM. Apparently, I had been taking pics of some birds. I don't have a lens for bird photography. Anyway, the day started with a steep rise to rugged pine tree cliff views.
Soon I was hiking in fell highland again. Perhaps the autumn colors were at their best at that day, as all the leaves in the trees and at the ground were turned to all shades of red, orange and yellow, and they hadn't fallen yet. You should stick to the signposted trail, but I couldn't resist throwing myself to the ground for a while. I just breathed and existed. Felt the branchlet of crowberry against my cheek. Let the sun shine and warm my back.
I arrived at the crossroads of Kuivi. My original plan had been to visit also Kuivi fell, but the flights and bus schedules didn't leave room for the extra kilometers. I walked in sunshine through beautiful fell highland for another hour. I heard the mighty rumble of Fiellu waterfall already while walking down the stairs to River Fiellugahjohka.
There were still people and tents at Fiellu at midday. I heard talking from the turf covered hut when I passed by on my way to the waterfall. Fiellu waterfall was flowing in the middle of the lush autumn colors and it looked spectacular. I could understand why so many hikers choose to camp at Fiellu. For me, it was enough to drink fresh and cold water from River Fiellugahjohka and have a peaceful lunch by the waterfall. Somebody had brought wooden logs for sitting to the river bank. After an hour I was ready to move on. The last wading at River Fiellugahjohka was short and easy. I saw a lot of lonely sandals on both sides of the stream.
From the Fiellu waterfall, I ascended a steep slope first on stairs and then on sandy trail. I could see the bold waterfall in the middle of yellow from a far. Sometimes the trail was just rocks, like a stony snake meandering in dense fell birch forest. Sometimes I walked down stairs at the bottom of a ravine, took water from the stream, and walked stairs up back to the fell highland. The red ground shined all the way to the horizon. About one kilometer before the Kevo canyon the trail went down once more steeply to a fireplace, Gaskkamuš Suohpášája. It was quiet place next to a stream, quite nice for tenting too. I climbed the steep stairs up.
The Finnish Grand Canyon was getting closer. The Kevo wall was close, there were smaller trails going to the edge. Strings of waterfalls flowed on the other side. Finally, I turned around and looked backwards. I saw the huge rugged canyon valley and the flowing river at the bottom. The spectacular canyon was bathing in yellow and golden shades and continuing far. The photos can never capture the depth of the beautiful scenery and the feeling of being emotionally moved, as at the same time, you feel so big and so small. The Kevo canyon is the greatest attraction among the Fiellu waterfall in Kevo Nature Reserve. I had planned to have a second lunch by sitting on the edge of the canyon, but as soon as I put down my backpack, it started raining. Oh well, I continued my journey.
After walking for fifteen minutes, the rain stopped. I should have stayed longer at the canyon. Oh well, again. A gentle slope took me next to a beautiful stream in Suohpášája. There was a Lappish hut and I went inside to eat some chocolade. Suohpášája was a nice camping site too.
The next stretch run through amazingly red and orange coloured fell highland again. The wide sandy trail was sometimes quite rocky. I didn't meet many other hikers. I really enjoyed the quietness and mild wind in my hair, this was hiking at its best. The trail went down through a forest, a steep slope ending at Geavvogeašláttu tentin area. A vast sandy beach surrounded the narrow lake. This was maybe not the prettiest site along the way. I had only a couple of kilometers left inside the nature reserve. Three kilometers to Ruktajávri, but I was not going to camp there either.
The sand trail run through a yellow fell birch forest until it came to the border sign of Kevo Strict Nature Reserve. The late evening sunshine was amazingly golden orange. It felt wonderful to cross the border into Paistunturi wilderness. Now I could pitch my tent wherever I wanted. And I wanted to pitch it by the Lake Luomusjärvet, on the shore of Lake Stuorrajávri. I could see that someone had liked the spot before me and built a fireplace from rocks. Finally I had also an even spot for the tent. I collected dry wood for setting up a fire. The bright, windy and extremely cold night could promise northern lights.
I sat by the warm fire and heard some fishermen on the lake. The winds were so strong that I decided to give up even trying to fish. I'd end up having the lure in my eye. The orange sky turned into pale pink and to ink blue. I covered myself with wool and down and set the alarm at midnight.
I was sleeping really tight, but I forced myself to open the tent zipper a bit. Beautiful green flames were dancing in the sky. It was a huge effort to crawl out of the sleeping bag and put on more clothes, but it's such a rare occasion for me to see Aurora Borealis that I stood outside a long time to admire the northern lights show. I was totally frozen when I got back to my sleeping bag. This day surely was the best of the best of the best hiking days ever!
Last stretch of Kevo Trail from Lake Luomusjärvet to Sulaoja (Suttesája)
The morning was bright and cold. I started my sports watch at seven AM. At Lake Luomusjärvet and the ishtmus there are three trails: one going along each shore and one going up in the middle. I chose the middle path to have bold views. Everything was bright yellow. Suddenly, a reindeer head appeared from the bushes. We stared at each other for a while and then one of us rushed away.
I drank water from a small stream and headed to an open sand field. The Luopmošjohka fireplace area was full of people and tents. The hikers by the fire wondered how could I have already hiked eight kilometers, but I thought it was such a pretty morning that I didn't want to waste it by sleeping. After a short break, I started hiking the final last two kilometers. The last kilometer spred to the right to a nature trail and up to the left, perhaps to the official Kevo trail.
I decided to take the left trail, because the views were looking nicer there and I could see the spring too. The Sulaoja springhead is the largest spring in Finland. There were some more trails, pitfalls and autumn colors. Just before arriving at the parking area, the trail went next to the riverside that grew lush green angelica. The angelica along the stream were protected.
Finally, at 10:15 AM, I reached the Sulaoja parking area and the end of the Kevo Trail. There was no bus signpost and we were a bit excited with some fellow hikers if the bus would arrive. It did, and even stopped by. I hopped on the bus and started my journey to Muotkatunturi wilderness!
My experience of hiking the 63 km Kevo Trail in a nutshell
- The Kevo Trail was one of the most beautiful hiking trails I've ever hiked. The 2021 autumn colors were magnificent and the scenery was like from a fairytale book.
- If you are fit enough, three days is a good schedule to hike the Kevo Trail, but the restrictions of camping make planning the day stretches a bit difficult. Especially if you don't start the journey in the early morning. When you arrive on a bus, you'll start late in the afternoon.
- The most popular places are crowded. During the high season there can be a lot of people everywhere. If you arrive late at a camping area, it may be challenging to find a spot for pitching your tent.
- There are plenty of stairs. Which means the climbing is not difficult but there's a lot of it.
- There's no mobile network coverage (at least with Telia).
- River crossings are relatively easy. There are rocks in the smaller streams and there are wire ropes at River Kevojoki and River Fiellogahjohka. If you hike from Lake Kenesjärvi to Sulaoja, take a few extra ropes with you to the other side. It is more popular to hike from Sulaoja to Lake Kenesjärvi, so there's always less ropes of the Sulaoja side of the river.
- Visitors are restricted to signposted trails. You can't actually get lost on the Kevo trails. Kevo nature reserve is a fantastic place for solo hiking!
