While the Kvalvika beach is the iconic beach of Lofoten, Haukland beach is definitely a ‘must see’ arctic paradise as well. It’s probably the most famous beach for swimming and SUP boarding, with easy access by car (no climbing needed, the parking area is by the beach) or by public transportation. For those craving for trails runs or hikes, there are various opportunities: walking by the beach all the way to the next Uttakleiv beach or going vertical to the popular Mannen (400 m) or the other peak closer to the ocean, Veggen (489 m). I enjoyed the panoramic views from Veggen and camped on the Haukland beach in the beginning of August.
The Haukland beach in Vestvågøya
The Haukland beach (Hauklandstranda) is in the southern Lofoten in Vestvågøya right next to the Vik beach. The Uttakleiv beach can also be reached by walking the coastal path or hiking over the Mannen ridge, and by car driving through a narrow and dark tunnel below Mannen.
The parking area by the beach is quite large, but it can still be full during the peak season. The price for overnight parking was around 200 NOK including camping (2020). There is a small beach cafe by the beach, where you can buy fresh coffee, ice-cream, soda and snacks, and also rent a SUP board and a drysuit for 1-3 hours (e.g., a SUP board 3 hours around 350 NOK), or a top kayak or a sea kayak. The beach is shallow, and the water is crystal clear (and icy cold), as anywhere in Lofoten.
Camping by the Haukland beach
Behind the white sand there is a wide and flat grass turf that is perfect for camping. In fact, camping anywhere else including the sand strip is forbidden. Although the beach is very popular, there’s also plenty of room for tents. It is quite easy to pitch the tent to a spot with sea views (but people pitch their tents quite close to each other, even so close that the folks may stumble on the cords of your tent!).
Next to the parking area there is a small building with free toilets (with paper!) and sinks for washing dishes. The water coming from the tap is not drinkable. You should bring water with you or buy bottled water from the cafe.
It was a cloudy night, and the thick white and grey clouds were hanging so low that the air was extremely moist. I had planned to hike Veggen in the evening to catch the midnight sun, but it was absolutely a no-go weather. Instead, I had dinner (some freezer-dried trekking food) in the candlelight and sipped one small bottle of cider that I had brought from Finland. A light down jacket was quite essential as the night was chill, around 14°C degrees, but it felt much colder.
Haukland beach was surprisingly peaceful despite of the crowded parking area and several tents. And the continuous tingling sound coming from the bells the sheep have on their collars was mesmerizing. A sweet lullaby, baa-aah. (Consider ear plugs if you get easily disturbed by sounds!)
Veggen mountain hike and trail run
The trail to Veggen is on the Uttakleiv beach side of the mountain. There is a camping site on the Uttakleiv beach, and you have to pay for parking there as well. The trail head is located behind a small kiosk, and it is clearly visible going across the grass turf with sheep lying and walking around.
When the trail heads up to the mountain, it’s much trickier to spot the trail head there. If you start climbing from a wrong place, you may end up scrambling some viciously steep wet boulder field where you literally hang from shaky bushes to prevent you from falling, questioning yourself: how the hell is this supposed to be an easy trail?! Well, pay attention and find the right trail head. It’s there. On the right side where the narrow path ends.
After I had survived the wrong wet path and the first steep vertical ascend, the trail came to the saddle between the mountains. To the left, there was an oval-shaped blue lake on the saddle. From the lake onwards, the trail going up to Veggen was more visible and easier to climb. The second part was quite steep as well (it’s a bit too steep for any kind of running, but great for power hiking) and there were some loose rocks, gravel and dirt. And lots of cute sheep chewing grass. There were also a few spots with some exposure, but you can choose a trail that doesn’t go near the edge if you don’t like heights.
Eventually the trail takes you to the top of the Uttakleiv side of the mountain with astonishing green and blue and turquoise views to the beach. If you are lucky, you may spot majestic eagles flying high above the saddle between the mountains, disappearing to the clouds if it’s a cloudy day. After reaching the top, the trail turned left and continued along the wide ridge of the mountain towards Haukland. The ridge stretch is an easy trail run or walk with no exposure, and the summit of Veggen is on the Haukland end of the trail.
It was a really cloudy morning when I went up to Veggen, and at some point, the clouds covered almost everything. Visibility turned very low and the wind was getting stronger. I pondered whether I should turn around and carefully get back down if there would be a storm coming. I didn’t check up the forecast in the morning, which is a tad stupid when in the mountains, even if they are just tiny mountains.
I sat on a rock and nibbled my chocolate bar. A couple of other people arrived at the summit too, and I decided to wait if the clouds would fade away and I could see the scenery from the top.
And eventually, they did. (As did the other people!)
The views from Veggen took my breath away. The white sand beach surrounded by dramatic mountains, and behind that a mountain massive as far as I could see. The sparkling ocean below, the blue sky above. I was not in a hurry, and I just sat on the cliff meditating in silence. I loved the peacefulness of the mountain, and the mighty eagles flying in the sky.
Time just stopped.
Anyway, it takes only half an hour back from the summit to the Uttakleiv beach (and even less if you’ve got a great pair of trailrunning shoes and stay on the right trail!).
The late afternoon and evening were summer at its best. The sun was shining from the blue sky and it was nice and warm. I rented a SUP board and paddled slowly in the bay enjoying the glimmering emerald green water. A relaxing movement after running in the mountains.
I could have spent several days just on the Haukland beach but throwing the last gazes at the wonderful evening sun, it was time to move on – the next mountain to run, Festvågtinden next to the Henningsvær fishing village, was waiting!
