Vistas valley (Vistasdalen in Swedish, Vistasvagge in Sami) is a green oasis in high-alpine environment in Swedish Lappland near Kebnekaise. The trail runs between Nikkaluokta and Alesjaure along river Vistasjohka in the wide valley surrounded by mountains. The trail is well-marked all the way. You can also hike the 84 km trail from Nikkaluokta to Abisko through Vistas valley. There’s a mountain cabin, Vistastugan, in the middle of the valley providing facilities, such as accommodation for hikers. The river is popular for paddling trips as well. Sometimes you may spot Scandinavian elks wandering in the valley – I did!
I haven’t been writing to my blog for months. A short explanation: my mother passed away in January, and it’s been a tough spring in many ways. I thought I could continue writing when I could write the story about my adventure in Vistas in the end of August 2021. It was my last destination during my week and a half outdoors trip, that included summitting Halti in Finland and climbing Kebnekaise in Sweden. It was late summer, and the mosquitoes were gone. It was also rainy late summer, and my DSLR camera had been through a rough time during my wet journey, functioning only partially. I hiked from Alesjaure to Nikkaluokta through rainy Vistas spending two nights in the valley.
Hiking from Alesjaure to Vistas valley
I stood by the Alesjaure bridge at 3:30 PM. The mountain cabin was standing on the other side of the river. The scenery was really beautiful: the green vegetation, the turquoise river, and the misty mountains surrounding the river valley. I had already walked 25 km on King’s Trail (Kungsleden). It had been raining for hours, and I sort of wished I had one extra night that I could spend in that huge mountain cabin. The trail turned right and up, and there was a wooden sign with red painted ‘Vistas’.
I walked through willow bushes. On the left side there was a red cottage village by lake Alisjávri with majestic Vistasvárri rising behind the village. A stream came down from a small lake between Durkkecohkka and Doaresoaivi (it was wider than what it seems to be in the pic!). There were plenty of loose rocks in the stream at the wading place, but because it had been raining, there was a lot of water as well. Since my hiking boots were sort of wet already, I didn’t bother changing to wading shoes. So, I took a couple of wet steps between the rocks.
The trail went up to the saddle and lake Bajip Cazajávri. Clouds were hanging low and hugging the mountains. The small stream between the lakes was easy to cross, but the rocks were slippery. Close to the second lake Vuollo Cazajávri, Tjatjajaurekåtan was marked on the map, but I can’t recall noticing any Lapp hut ruins. Then the trail descended to the Vistas valley. It took around 2 hours and 15 minutes to reach the waterfall of river Moarhmmájohka.
The turquoise river Moarhmmájohka roars in a steep gorge. Crossing the river would be quite impossible without the bridge. I stood by the waterfall for a long time, just gazing at the beautiful scenery. After the King’s Trail, Vistas felt like untouched wilderness. When I turned back to the trail, I realized I was soaking wet and my hands were freezing, and I was hungry. All of a sudden, I felt like I was all alone in the universe. A feeling of loneliness, that I had never felt while hiking solo before. Then the mysterious feeling hit me, that I wouldn’t see my mother ever again. I didn’t. I cried then, and just going through the photos and memories from Vistas brings that feeling back again. I’m grateful I talked with mom on the phone before she passed away. I believe this episode happened because I came to Vistas right after my King’s Trail pilgrimage – a spiritual journey.
I walked in the rain. The trail was sometimes a bit outgrown and I scrambled through wet willow bushes. Even though I had rain pants on, it felt like my hiking tights were wet too. Just before the reindeer herder’s cottage (Renvaktarstugan) on the other side of the river I saw a green tent. It was really comforting to know that there were other people after all.
Moose in a storm
After walking around 4 hours from Alesjaure (over 36 km that day), I decided to call it a day. I found a nice tenting spot right after crossing the second small stream coming down from the southern side of Bogicohkka and before crossing a bigger river Boginjira. The stream was narrow and there were big rocks in the middle. I tossed my backpack to the ground and started pitching my tent in the rain. I noticed some reindeers upper on the hill but didn’t pay much attention to them. My tent was almost set up when I looked at the reindeers again as they moved closer. Well, these aren’t shy like other reindeers. And they are kind of big too. Oh, hello Mr. Moose… And Mrs. Moose… And Baby Moose!
I had read what to do if you meet a bear or a wolf. I didn’t know anything about moose. Are they dangerous when there’s a small one? If they attack, what should I do? I decided to continue pitching up my tent and not noticing them. I also started talking quietly. The male elk walked quite close and stared straight at me for a long time. Eventually, it thought I wasn’t that interesting after all and walked slowly to the stream and a small forestry area. The rest of the moose family followed. Now I had the courage to take my camera out of my backpack, but it was dark and raining, the moose were too far away already, and my hands were shaking.
I went into my tent to get dry clothes and food. I cooked water in the vestibule, the zipper half open to keep air ventilating. Dry clothes and warm pasta were just pure luxury. The weather got worse, and it was quite a storm outside. I was happy that I had fastened the cords really carefully. I kept thinking about the moose. What if they come back and kick my tent? (Yeah, the solo hiker’s absurd imagination!). Funny how the fear came so long after the situation. I put on some Ibiza house music from Spotify – that should keep anyone from approaching my tiny home.
Hiking through Vistas valley
In the morning the moose had disappeared, the sky was still grey, but it didn’t rain much. Until it was raining heavily again. I had breakfast in the vestibule and packed my wet stuff. The tent fabric seemed like it had doubled its weight. Today’s agenda was to get quite close to Nikkaluokta, as I had to leave the next day.
The trail was easy to walk. Sometimes it was outgrown with wet willow bushes. Here and there the ground vegetation had turned red, autumn was slowly arriving. The mountain massive was still covered with clouds. The trail crossed a deep stream or canal of river Boginjira, luckily there was a tiny bridge made of two wooden planks. There were also two tents by the river. Everything in the valley looked amazingly green, including the meandering river.
I walked through fell birch forests. The ground grew pink grass and junipers. It seemed like the clouds are sliding down into the valley. I came to a crossroads. Turning to left and hiking through the forest and up to Vássanjunnji would take the hiker to Moarhmmá glacier and Mårmastugan cabin, and further to another valley. Then I see Vistastugan, the mountain cabin in Vistas valley.
Vistasstugan mountain cabin offers up to 50 beds, kitchen facilities and a sauna. Pets are allowed to some of the rooms. Behind the buildings there’s a bridge over river Visttassjohka. From there you can hike the trail to Nallo through Stuor Reaiddávággi valley. A man, probably the guy who is running the place, waved at me from the garden. I didn’t need to visit the lodge, so I continued hiking. Right after the lodge I cross a small stream. There are a lot of small streams in the forests between Vistastugan and Nikkaluokta. Some have rocks to step on, some have wooden planks, some of the rivers require easy wading. The trail ascended above the treeline and revealed beautiful views to the valley, but the mountain summits were still hiding in the white.
Around 5 km from Vistastugan the trail comes to another bridge over river Visttasjohka. I had been hiking 5 h 30 mins since morning. My original plan was to cross the river here and continue to Kaskavagge and visit Tarfala on my way to Nikkaluokta. Since the weather was not that great – raining and poor visibility in the mountains – I skipped the more challenging route.
The streams coming down from lake Vássaloamijávri were easy to hop over, the bigger river Vássajohka that runs in a gorge had a bridge over the stream. Finally, just before 3 PM the rain stopped, and I saw some sun rays. It’s a different experience, hiking when it’s not raining! I continued for an hour still before having a lunch break. I had just poured water to the kettle and put it on the stove when three people passed by (hadn’t seen people for two days!) and we greeted each other. I lost my focus on cooking and pushed my kettle upside down. It was nice to have water bottles since I was up on a hill and quite far from the river.
The forests got denser, huge mushrooms growing under the fell birch trees. Birds were flying and singing in the shadows. A powerful stream coming down from Jorbaoaivi and Duopmacohkka was sparkling in the sunlight. The stream was crossed by a bridge. The trail turned boggier and muddy, although there were quite a lot of duck boards over the most difficult wetlands. Sometimes especially in the forests the trail was a vast mud field. First, I met a family scrambling in mud, later I met a nice Swedish guy with whom I chatted maybe twenty minutes. He told me about the rescue operation near Kebnekaise, the same day I had been at the mountain. We agreed that both of us had made a bad choice about our hiking shoes.
Then the streams and rivers got a bit trickier to cross. There was one bridge made of wooden planks that were old, slippery and completely slanted. I was sure I’d slide off into the water with my heavy backpack but managed without falling (barely). Some wading places had too much water, but I could find better spots by following other people’s tracks. River Roavigorsa was wide and around 30 cm deep, with an ice-cold powerful stream. It was late, my hiking boots were wet, and changing to sandals seemed like a lot of work. I just went in with my hiking boots on, trying to cross the river fast, but without any straps on my rain pants, some water went inside the boots. Walking felt a bit unpleasant after that. After wading another cold and deep stream, river Márffigorsa, my feet felt totally numb. They were soaking wet and cold. I climbed up to a cliff and spotted a tenting area with an old fireplace. I couldn’t care less about the view and decided to set up my camp right there. I had hiked 31 km, and it was already late evening.
I boiled water for hot drinks and dinner. I had hoped to see at least one sunset, but the sky was forever grey. Well, at least it didn’t rain anymore. The evening was calm and the late summer mosquitoes found their way to my camp. I went back inside and closed the zipper carefully. It was actually quite nice having dinner in a sleeping bag since my feet were still frozen. And, after so many days in the wild, the mobile network was back!
Last stretch to Nikkaluokta
I woke up early – just to see that sun was already high on a beautiful blue sky. I missed the one possible sunrise, but then again, the tenting spot was not that picturesque anyway. A really fast breakfast, stuff into the backpack, and on my way at 6:30.
The last stretch of Vistas valley was easy hiking. There were quite a lot of hills to go up and down, and between the hills, a lot of wetland, mud, and bogs, but also a lot of duck boards. The closer the trail went to Nikkaluokta, the more forestry it got. The green fell birch trees covered with gleaming raindrops were bathing in the morning sun and it felt like walking in an enchanted forest.
The final leg leading to Nikkaluokta Sarri’s parking area was a two km walk on a road, Nikkaluoktavägen. My feet hurt so badly that I had to scream a couple of times to keep going. The views from the bridge to Vistas and to the other side to lake Paittasjärvi were incredible, the river reflecting the mountains. The last stretch was 12.5 km, and it took 3h 25 min. I paid my parking bill and bought a cup of great coffee. Then it was time to wave goodbye to Swedish Lapland.
