The most popular hiking trail in Finland is Karhunkierros, also known as the Bear’s Trail. It takes you through the Oulanka National Park to beautiful forests and scenic views by the swirling River Oulankajoki. The difficulty level varies from easy to more challenging, but I don’t think there are any difficult parts really, even if you are an unexperienced hiker.

The 82 km trail starts from Hautajärvi village in Lapland’s Salla and ends in Rukatunturi fell in Kuusamo. The legendary Bear’s Trail was my first solo hike in the summer 2020.

This part covers the last 41km. Read also: Getting ready for the Bear's Trail and hiking the first 41 km.

From Ansakämppä hut to Jyrävänkoski rapids

After the 41 km metal pole the trail took me up to the hills and forests. Around 8 km from the Ansakämppä hut, and by the late lunchtime I reached the Jussinkämppä hut next to a long and narrow Lake Kulmakkojärvi. Off with the ever-shrinking hiking boots, on with the soft sandals! The hut yard was really crowded, and all the tables were occupied.

For a daytrip, Jussinkämppä is easily accessed from the Pähkänäkallio parking area with around 5 km walk. I found a free bench by the fireplace and set up my stove there. I had a cup of chanterelle ‘soup’ with way too much water in it, and some bread and coffee. I knew it was still a long way to go, so I was soon back on the trail.

Some more duckboards, then rocks and roots. I arrived at Venäänmutka, a spot with a beautiful view to the meandering Oulankajoki River. But as soon as I stopped, horseflies were all over me (those big ones!). I got all frustrated with the camera settings and filters, and my hands were shaking, and the camera was heavier than ever.

Then I wanted to hike up to the Pähkänänkallio cliff, where “the” photos of Venäänmutka and Bear’s Trail are taken, but I couldn’t find the trail head. As the day was turning into evening and I had many hours of hiking left, I sighed and (again) though of coming back later, as the sight is also easily accessible from a parking area. (Most of the attractions along the Bear's Trail are quite easily accessible from parking areas.)

From Venäänmutka the stretch of the trail now goes along the riverbank of River Kitkajoki, sometimes just a few centimeters from the fastmoving water. There were also some challenging steep riverbanks to scramble with the heavy backpack. But I embraced the cooler air down by the river, and the random breathes of air.

Eventually, the trail took a turn uphill and into the dense forests. I wanted to hike as far as possible so that the third and last day would be shorter and faster.

After a short stretch of duckboards, the trail comes to crossroads, where you have to decide whether to walk the southern or the northern part of the Small Bear’s Trail. The Small Bear’s Trail is a 12 km ring route, one of the most popular day hiking destinations in Finland where you can easily reach the many scenic views of the Bear’s Trail and enjoy the Finnish nature with just a day backpack.

On the northern part you can see the Kallioportti cliff and one of the most famous (and also photographed) sights, Myllykoski hut and rapids. Then the trail also turns to Juuma, with accommodation, camping and restaurant services. On the southern route there are the hanging bridges, Kalliosaari sight, the Jyrävänkoski rapids, and the Siilastupa hut. I wanted to sleep next to the rapids again, so I chose the southern trail.

I reached Harrisuvanto at 8 PM. The hanging bridge looked so beautiful bathing in the evening sun above the blue still water. A reindeer was chewing leaves and walking in front of me, until it disappeared to the bushes. I realized that I had already hiked all the way to the Small Bear’s Trail, and I was like yay, the hardest part must be behind (haha, if only!).

I spent a moment looking at Kalliosaari scenery and the amazing evening sun from the top of the cliffs. At this point I was so grateful I had trekking poles, almost like another pair (the only pair!) of legs.

I shambled to Siilastupa cooking shelter at 9 PM. There were two tents nearby, but the cooking area was empty. The hut was around 100 m further down the trail, just by the water. It was probably going to rain during the night and maybe also in the morning, so I went checking if there was still room in the hut that had great views to the Jyrävänkoski rapids.

Well, it was quite crowded (although the people said I could fit in), but the deal-breaker was the temperature inside the hut. It was like a sauna. The stove must have been heating the small dark room the whole day. Good for the swimmers, not so for me as I was already sweating.

I went back and pitched my tent under some dense spruces that would be my shelter during the packing operation in the morning if it was raining. Then I took water from the river and had a cozy dinner with my new reindeer buddy by the cooking shelter. Tomato garlic pasta and hot chocolate with a shot of rum to ease the foot pain (didn't really, but the taste is great).

A late-night fire would have been awesome, but the campfires were forbidden during my whole journey because of the risk of forest fire. Anyway, I was tired and tired of mosquitos, so a visit to the toilet (plenty of new nice dry toilets) and then curling up into the sleeping bag.

I could hear the roaring river’s sweet dreams sounds. I had only one painkiller left in my first-aid pouch, and I would need it during the third day, so I just had to get some sleep despite of the horrible aches in my feet.

From Jyrävänkoski rapids to Ruka

I woke up at 7 AM after a reckless night. My feet were still hurting. I cleaned the wounds and wrapped everything with bandaids, gauze and tape and put merino wool socks on.

The idea of stuffing my feet into the hiking boots that had shrunk down at least two sizes was terrifying. Now I know why sometimes you see abandoned hiking boots lying on a rock near a trail, under an open wilderness hut, or next to a rubbish bin on a parking lot.

I tried not to think about my feet and ate breakfast with the reindeer buddy, packed my belongings, and off to the trails. It was the last day, and I was so going to make it!

I had to take a break after just a couple of hundred of meters. I stood by the Jyrävänkoski rapids watching the power of falling water, and suddenly got tears in my eyes. The astonishing rapids had been in wilderness for so long before me, and they would continue existing for a long time after I’m gone.

The nature in Finland is just so amazingly beautiful. The forests and the lakes. Maybe it was the beauty of nature, maybe I was exhausted and excited on the last day of my journey.

The stairs took me up to the cliffs. Aallokkokoski rapids roared down somewhere. After an hour of walking, I arrived at Ruka 22 km sign. One of the most visited attractions, Myllykoski rapids, was nearby. At this point I pondered that the extra 2 km would take too much time (and cause too much pain), so I just walked to the cliff nearby to take some photos and decided to come back later with fresh legs.

One hour later I reached Puurosuo’s shelter and sat down to have an energy bar. I was also thinking about the quietness of the trail. Although it's one of the most popular hiking trails (if not the most popular) in Finland and it was the peak season, I didn't see many people while I was walking. The only crowded places were those huts that are close to the roads. At the Puurosuo shelter, it was just me and the mosquitos.

The trail was easy to walk, some wetland and forestry cliffs. Then the trail came to a harvest area. I saw some fells (was it already Konttainen?) far ahead. I stood up on a stump in the middle of the trail and started singing our national song. I laughed to myself and it cheered me up.

Across a bog, some more duckboards and pretty cottongrass tussocks along the way. Clouds began forming into the sky, the sky turned grey. Mosquitos had a buffet on my calf, but I didn’t care to shoo them away anymore.

Finally, I arrived at the Porontimajoki hut around 12.30 PM, an early lunchtime welcomed. And the last lunch on this journey. The hut was dark and hot. I took off my backpack and boots for a short while and sat on a wooden bench.

The two young men who had been hiking at the same pace with me arrived at Porontimajoki for lunch too. I borrowed them some matches, and we had a chat about water impurities and my water filter. After filling my water bottles it was time to leave the cozy Porontimajoki behind.

Soon after that also the group of three guys who had been hiking the same three-day pace as well, passed by. They were in a hurry, and one of the guys said that ‘now it’s just rushing straight to the finish line as fast as possible, I’m not up for anything extra anymore’. He had horrible blisters too.

I continued my own (slowing and slowing) pace, heavily leaning on my poles as every single movement of my feet felt like they were hammered and burnt at the same time.

There were so many beautiful grey dead pine trees all the way on the trail. It was quiet, the only sound came from my boots and my poles and my breathing. I saw the 71 km sign and noticed some descending of the trail. It was getting windy and the sky was all grey now. Maybe a few drops of rain too.

After a while I gave up and put on my raincoat and rain cover to my trekking backpack. My sweater was already damp. Somehow, I had not noticed how wet the cloudy and misty weather was. I sat down on a bench in the middle of a broad mire. It was drizzling. Snickers tasted good. My lips were totally chapped, and my eyelids swallowed, maybe because of lack of sleep or maybe because of mosquito bites. I decided not to take any selfies.

Then the Bear’s Trail showed its mightiness.

The trail started going up and down. First came Konttainen (433 m) with its famous views. It was around 5 PM, and I was walking really slowly. The views were amazingly green, although the fog and clouds covered the scenery more and more. The trail went constantly up and down, up and down. And it was raining. It doesn't matter whether you've got a rain jacket on really, you get your clothes wet anyway because of the humidity and sweating. The trail from the Konttainen fell to the Valtavaara fell seemed to last forever.

The first climbing up was not too difficult or physically demanding, but my feet were hurting so much that I decided to take a break at the first shelter at Valtavaara, the Suolampi lean-to. I also needed something to eat and a toilet. The rain was getting harder and I’m pretty sure I heard some thunder too. Just when I’m hiking on the highest peaks, dammit. I lifted my feet up against the wooden wall and nibbled a chocolate bar.

When I left the shelter I saw the two guys for the last time as we were pondering which way to go. It was raining a lot, and clouds were hanging low. The cliffs and rocks were getting muddy and slippery. There are endless uphills and downhills all the way through Valtavaara, and many parts of the trail have chains or ropes to support climbing with big backpacks. But especially when the rocks are wet, hiking and climbing become very challenging.

When I finally reached the summit of Valtavaara (492 m) everything was white, it was raining with hard winds. I could see about 30 m forward, and I wasn’t even sure where I am or where the trail goes, as it wasn't visible anymore, just rock everywhere. I hadn’t seen other people for a long time. (If I ever wanted to experience panic during this hike, now would be a great moment!).

I was so very happy to see the pile of stones marking the Valtavaara’s highest point, and soon after, I saw also the small day hut and the sign Ruka 3.3 km. I was not lost! It was already 7.30 PM. I couldn’t think much more than getting out of there as quickly as possible.

Because of the slippery trail and the pain in my feet, I couldn’t move very fast and I was getting a bit cold. But the idea of taking off the backpack and coat in the stormy weather and adding some more clothes and putting all back seemed a bit too much work for just three kilometers (two notes to self: 1) if you are cold, put on more clothes 2) three kilometers is a loooong way to hike with a trekking backpack, uphill, in awful weather, and with bleeding and aching feet!).

The kilometers got longer and longer. Up and down. No metal poles and signs of progressing. I didn’t know if it was sweat or rain coming down my face (could have been tears as well). I focused on every step and talked to myself. I will walk to Ruka no matter how hard it is. Every step takes me closer to home (or AirBnB but you know the feeling!). I almost screamed out of joy when I saw the 81 (bear) 1 sign.

And what a surprise: the last kilometer went up and down all the way to the final part of the trail that takes you up to the Ruka fell. I rushed up the extremely steep gravel slope with my last bits of energy (which were non-existent). I didn’t know where the finish line would be, since it wasn’t up there. There were no signs, no nothing.

I couldn’t believe it, the hike and torture just seemed to continue forever. Then I saw a trail runner who cheered me up (I must have looked miserable) and said that the gate is just a hundred meters forward.

So finally, at 9 PM I was sitting on the stairs under the Bear’s Trail gate, feeling nauseous and shaking in my cold and wet clothes. I was too exhausted to take off my backpack. I felt joy, relief, and deep gratefulness. Then I cried a little. And then I laughed again. Instead of a nice couple of days chillout nature getaway, it felt more like a quest for survival. But then again, I felt like conquering a challenge, and I guess that’s the way I like it.