Kungsleden or The King’s Trail is a famous hiking trail in northern Sweden. Stretching from Abisko to Hemavan and consisting of several stages, Kungsleden spans over 400 kilometers in length. The most popular section is the Abisko-Nikkaluokta hike.
I walked the Aktse-Saltoluokta stretch after hiking in Sarek National Park as part of my two-week adventure in Swedish Lapland. On the Kungsleden Trail from Aktse to Saltoluokta, you traverse vast and rugged plateaus, cross shimmering fjord-like narrow lakes, and admire magnificent cliffs. I didn't visit the STF Aktse Mountain Cabin but continued directly towards Saltoluokta from Skierfe.
Kungsleden – The King's Trail
Kungsleden is a marked trail winding through majestic landscapes, surrounded by mountains in valleys and on fell highlands. There are no river crossings along the trail – you can use bridges and duckboards to cross the streams and wetlands.
The most popular hike on Kungsleden is the roughly 100-kilometer Abisko-Nikkaluokta (or Nikkaluokta-Abisko) trail, that is also the route of the popular Fjällräven Classic trek in August. Having previously hiked from Nikkaluokta to Alesjaure, I was familiar with Kungsleden's trails and scenery.
Kungsleden is divided into the following hikes from north to south:
- Abisko-Nikkaluokta
- Nikkaluokta-Saltoluokta
- Saltoluokta-Kvikkjokk
- Kvikkjokk-Ammarnäs
- Ammarnäs-Hemavan
The Aktse – Saltoluokta hike falls on the Kvikkjokk – Saltoluokta stretch. It's approximately 27 kilometers (17 miles) of walking from Aktse to Saltoluokta. Along the roughly 33-kilometer route, you comfortably cross Lake Sitojaure sitting in a boat.
Accommodation on Kungsleden
The Swedish Tourist Association STF maintains a comprehensive network of mountain huts along the Kungsleden Trail. Staying in these huts or camping in their vicinity is subject to a fee. It's advisable to book accommodation in advance, although they try to find lodging for all those in need.
Many huts offer a large or small selection of goods, so you can replenish your food supply or buy essential hiking gear such as gas, maps, and accessories. Some larger mountain cabins also have restaurants serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
The most famous attraction in Aktse – Skierfe
Skierfe is a mountain on the edge of Sarek National Park. Its nearly vertical cliff rises above the Rapadalen valley to an altitude of 1,179 meters (3868 ft) above sea level and approximately 800 meters (2625 ft) above the STF Aktse Mountain Cabin. Skierfe is renowned for its stunning viewpoint, offering breathtaking views to Rapadalen and the delta of Laitaure.
The trail from Aktse to the base of Skierfe and up to the summit is relatively easy. Due to its accessible scenery, Skierfe is a popular day hike for Kungsleden trekkers and even a destination for photography. You don’t have to trek in Sarek to capture an impressive shot for your Instagram.
The hike from Skierfe to Saltoluokta was a bit over 36 kilometers, according to my sports watch's statistics.
Hiking from Skierfe to Aktse in the Fog
I woke up at the foot of Skierfe around 8 am to a pleasant, partly cloudy, and bright morning at the end of August. Wisps of clouds were rising rapidly from the Rapadalen valley below, perhaps heralding rain.
As I set out towards Kungsleden Trail around nine, a thick fog enveloped the eastern mountains and fells of Sarek National Park. The fog brought along a drizzle. A compass would be needed soon.
I walked the southern side of Bassoaivi, which I had summitted the day before. Skierfe is such a popular day hiking destination that a deep and wide trail has formed from Kungsleden to Skierfe. In the rocky terrain, it was sometimes difficult to spot the trail in the dense fog.
Reindeer appeared through the mist. People began to appear as well, which felt strange after the long and quiet trek through Sarek wilderness. After walking just over three kilometers, I left Sarek National Park behind me.
There wasn't much to see in the fog. Aktsekallio, also known as Nio-stenen or "Nine Stones," loomed in the grayness. The stones are an ancient sacred site where, according to legend, nine bears were killed.
On the peat path, the stones grew larger. The last part was wet, numerous paths meandered through the willows, attempting to navigate around the soft and boggy mounds. It was impossible to avoid the muddy patches entirely.
Two and a half hours after leaving the Skierfe camp, I stood again at the Kungsleden signpost. My phone picked up some signal, hello civilization! The drizzle turned into heavy raining.
Several tents were pitched at the junction. If the bustle of Kungsleden doesn't bother you, this spot offers a stay with great views of Lake Lájtávrre. The weather cleared up, and I headed towards Svjinne.
Hiking from Aktse to Svjinne
From the junction at Skierfe near Aktse, the trail began a gradual and lengthy ascent. It's about seven kilometers from the junction to Svjinne – exactly half of the journey uphill on the east side of Njunjes and Soaresoaivi, and the other half downhill from Mártevárasj onwards.
After the dramatic mountains and valleys, Kungsleden seemed a bit modest. Reindeer could be spotted on almost every slope, and hikers passed by steadily, their neon-green and neon-yellow backpack rain covers glowing. Skierfe's sharp peak remained visible behind the barren plateau for quite some time.
The landscape was dry (yet wet) and rugged treeless highland. In late August, the grass shimmered coppery, hinting at the onset of autumn. I pondered the inner life of reindeer and especially where they disappear to when it rains.
A few kilometers ahead, in the middle of the trail, stood a pile of rocks with instructions nailed to it for the Svjinne boat service. The note stated that it was now the very last moment to book transportation, as the mobile network coverage would be gone soon. I had already booked my boat trip in advance for the 5:15 pm departure.
As the trail ascended, it became rockier. From the saddle between Doaresoaivi and Rengärd, the pale ribbon of Lake Sitojaure and its surrounding lush valley gradually unfolded beyond the clouds. A never-ending herd of reindeer clambered up the steep slope of Mártevárásj.
The descent at the end would be fast. Along the trail, a large rock invited me to sit for a lunch break amidst magnificent scenery. The first mosquitoes or similar winged creatures of the whole adventure miraculously found their way to the rock at the same time, so I settled for half a snack bar.
The descent was steep but easy, as Kungsleden trails usually are. Sand and rocks turned into meadows and the meadows turned into blueberry bushes tinged by autumn's bite. In places, I could still enjoy juicy berries.
The beautiful meadow enticed several groups to stop for a meal break. I continued on the wider sandy path, which eventually plunged into a lush birch forest. A sign indicated that the area belonged to the Ultevis fjällurskog Naturreservat nature reserve.
The trail led to the shore. People lounged on the pier. I began to search for a suitable spot to set up my stove.
Svjinne – Sitojaure by Boat
Kungsleden continues on the other side of the lake, reachable only by boat. The boat operates daily at 8:15 am and 5:15 pm from Svjinne to Sitojaure, and reservations are always required in advance. If you want to cross the lake at another time, you can order a boat for an additional fee.
A larger group was waiting at the shore for the charter boat. There was one empty seat on the boat, and since I was the only one standing on the shore, they asked if I wanted to join. The charter cost 100 SEK more than the regular fare, but I saved nearly two hours of unnecessary waiting. However, I didn't manage to eat lunch here either.
As soon as we departed from the shore, the motorboat accelerated to full speed. The sun was already peeking through the clouds, bringing a summer feeling.
STF Sitojaure
The STF Sitojaure Mountain Cabin is located next to a Sámi village, or Siida, on the northern shore of Sitojaure, between Saltoluokta and Kvikkjokk. In addition to lodging, Sitojaure offers boat transportation service – there are no rowboats on the lake. If you’ve got Telia as your operator, you’ll have network coverage in Sitojaure.
There are considerable remains of ancient settlements in the surroundings of Sitojaure. The lands belong to the Sámi reindeer herding area. Besides reindeer, bears, lynxes, and wolves inhabit the forests and mountains.
Sitojaure – Muorkátjávrátja
At half past four in the late afternoon, the sun was already shining from a blue sky, warming the air. I set off walking in the bright green birch forest, as if autumn had turned into summer.
There were several signs prohibiting camping in the forest. The trail became dry and rocky. At times, long gray planks crossed over the wetlands.
The forest and trees didn't last long. An open plateau stretched out in every direction. The imposing cliffs of Tjirák felt like they were rising right next to me, even though the nearest cliff was over a kilometer away on the map.
At the intersection of paths on a plateau, a sign indicated that I had hiked three kilometers from Sitojaure. So, my walking pace had dwindled to three kilometers per hour. I could manage another hour of walking and look for a suitable camping spot.
The path curved through a small narrow valley, at the bottom of which lay a grassy pond. That was the first place to get water since leaving Sitojaure. A fire pit and the worn ground hinted that many had camped there just by the trail. I continued across the bridge.
There was a lot of boardwalk repair work along Kungsleden this year. New planks had been stacked along the trail already between Singi and Kaitumjaure, and the same work continued here as well. During my last hike to Kebnekaise and along Kungsleden from Nikkaluokta to Alesjaure, the repair work hadn't started yet.
By 6 pm, the sun had dipped low enough that the trail fell into the shadows of the mountains. I could have walked longer in the calm evening, but since there was no earlier access from Saltoluokta to Kebnats, I preferred to spend my time on the trail rather than at the mountain station.
At the Muorkátjávrátja, River Ávtsusjjåhkå makes a large arc and leaves dry and flat land along the riverbank. It is definitely the first great camping spot when hiking from Sitojaure.
Unfortunately, there was already a tent village set up at the southern edge of the area, with a large group of noisy hikers enjoying the evening sun. I walked briskly far enough away to pitch my own tent and prepare dinner still under the last golden rays.
The long adventure was starting to take a toll on my body. Although the 22 km stretch had been moderate, I just crawled into my sleeping bag and fell asleep.
Through Ávtsusjvágge shelter to Saltoluokta
The final morning of my trek dawned sunny and cold. In two weeks, my inner clock had decided that half past five is a decent time to wake up. But it had been a very cold night, and it wasn't easy to get out of the sleeping bag quickly.
There was about 13 kilometers left to Saltoluokta. Half past eight, my backpack was packed once again, and I was excited to hike the final leg of the trek.
The landscape changed: there were more lakes and mountains, reindeer, and a trail runner. On the last stretch, I also encountered several solo hikers. After the reindeer, the magnificent cliff of Sjäksjo began to dominate the views. The camping spots also improved as the journey progressed.
The red marks of the snowmobile trail started to line the path. The Ávtsusjvágge hut or wether shelter stood out as a small dot behind a long ridge. On the ridge I could also spot a tent. Or a rock. Often, I had to ponder for a long time between these two options without glasses.
The weather shelters are not meant for overnight stays except in emergency situations. Camping in the yard is allowed and then you can use the dry toilets. I stopped by and looked inside out of curiosity. Someone was unpacking their tent outside, and a sleeping bag hung from the window.
On the book cover it read: Vart är du på väg - where are you going? Of course, it was the hikers' guestbook, where it's advisable to write down where you're coming from and where you're going, so that in an emergency, a search party could more easily find the right place. But the words stuck with me. Where am I on my journey?
The new fancy duckboards meandered through the willow bushes. On the vast plateau, the wide gravel path branched out like a river into narrow channels, with the long Lake Langas peeking through the shrubs and rocks. The descent towards Saltoluokta began from the west side of Gejnutoalgge.
I stopped for a moment to admire the late summer greenery and the blue of the lake. A delicate rainbow adorned an otherwise gray sky.
First, the fell turned into a gnarled birch forest, where the trees were green, and the blueberries were large. I ate several handfuls of berries to curb my hunger, and decided to dig out the camping stove once at the shore. The “Ravinen” sign suggested a small detour to a gorge, but I couldn't get inspired for anything other than reaching the destination.
Then the path turned rocky, and the birches were replaced by magnificent old pines. Throughout the rest of the journey, there were flat camping spots in the shade of the forest. And finally, I arrived where joy struggles with melancholy: at the end of the hike in Saltoluokta!
Saltoluokta Mountain Station
The STF Saltoluokta Fjällstation Mountain Cabin is located close to the World Heritage Area of Laponia and next to the vast national parks, Stora Sjöfallet and Sarek. Saltoluokta offers over 100 beds, a restaurant, sauna, and a shop. The main log building was completed in 1918.
In the summer, Saltoluokta can be reached from Kebnats by the M/S Langas boat, whose schedules are coordinated with bus services. From Saltoluokta, there are several day hike routes in addition to Kungsleden.
There were a couple of hours until the ship's departure, so I decided to reward myself for the 250-kilometer (155 miles) hike with a delicious-looking buffet right after realizing that Saltoluokta had a restaurant. Saltoluokta's restaurant caters very well to vegans as well as those with gluten-free and lactose-free diets. The lunch buffet price was 150 SEK. For an additional fee, you could make waffles with whipped cream and strawberry jam.
The buffet table featured freshly baked seed bread and vegetable soup, a salad section full of modern hummus and coleslaw, local lake fish mousse, and cheeses. For treats, there were coffee and homemade soft brownies. With my belly filled only with blueberries, it urgently sent messages to a spot that would make Pavlov's dogs drool.
I refilled my plates twice. After two weeks of hiking, I was like a squirrel of the dry summer, with clothes hanging off me. I felt like I was in heaven when I got real fresh food. Maybe for the next long hike, I should bring a little more food.
With a full belly, it would have been heavenly to just roll into bed for a couple of days, but I still had to walk to the boat. The M/S Langas, which operates from Saltoluokta to Kebnats, was big and full of hikers. The payment was collected during the trip.
In Kebnats, I wandered around for a moment looking for information signs. I wasn't sure at all where the buses would pick up passengers and whether I should start walking to the road. The staff on the pier informed me that the bus would come directly to the pier.
In no time, I was sitting on the bus. I had already bought the ticket before the hike, and it had remained dry. It felt utterly weird that the adventure was now behind me, and the journey home was ahead.
I kept thinking about the wonderful moments of the adventure. The beautiful Cievrraláhku and Tarfala valley when leaving Nikkaluokta. The camera getting soaked in a deluge and the thunderstorm raging above the tent at the foot of Kebnekaise. The rainy and foggy hike from Kebnekaise to Singi and from Singi past the stormy rapids of Kaitumjaure. The sunny hike from Teusajaure, drying the camera by the lake, and the hot hike from Teusajaure to Vakkotavare and Suorva dam.
I particularly reflected on my incredible experiences in Sarek. Courage, determination, discovery. Could I experience anything like that again? Perhaps I need to find out someday.
