Ski touring in Lapland is a dream for many outdoor enthusiasts, especially after becoming familiar with summer hiking. Pallas-Yllästunturi National Park in Finland fits perfectly for your first ski tour: the Hetta-Pallas winter trail is well-maintained and marked, the cabin network is extensive, and settlements are nearby. The national landscape in winter is also breathtakingly beautiful.

In terms of visitor numbers, Pallas-Yllästunturi National Park is the most popular national park in Finland. The Hetta-Pallas hiking trail attracts thousands of hikers throughout the year. However, on a ski tour, you can still find your own peace.

Here are tips and my experiences for you to plan a ski tour in Lapland and Pallas-Yllästunturi National Park!

Hetta-Pallas Winter Trail

The Hetta-Pallas ski trail mainly runs along the lower slopes and marshlands of the fells, avoiding the summits as in the summer route. The entire winter trail and ski tracks are maintained only from March to April. In winter, you can ski (and go snowshoeing) on the marked summer route as well – higher up in the fell, the snow is harder, while lower down, it may be deep and sinking.

For those embarking on their first ski tour, it's advisable to choose a prepared ski route with maintained tracks that run between cabins. The distances between cabins on the Hetta-Pallas ski route are longer, but the terrain is flatter. The winter route is marked with cross-poles.

Along the Hetta-Pallas route, there are numerous open wilderness huts and reservable cabins. The Pallas-Yllästunturi Lappish huts are intended for day use, but some can be used for overnight stays if needed. Camping is permitted only near designated resting places even in winter.

Originally, I planned to do the Hetta-Pallas ski tour in Pallas-Yllästunturi National Park, skiing exactly the same Hetta-Pallas hiking route that I had hiked in autumn. Due to logistics and my other schedules, I decided to start and finish the end of March ski tour at Pallas. After calculating a realistic skiing pace, I also decided to skip the Ounastunturi fell section, leaving out the route between Hetta and Pahakuru.

Ski Touring and Equipment

So, what is ski touring? Ski touring – or backcountry skiing – is, as the name suggests, hiking on skis. What distinguishes it from regular skiing is the gear sled pulled along and spending the night(s) outdoors during the journey, i.e., the duration of the trek.

On a ski tour, equipment is usually transported in a pulk, a sled pulled behind. Instead of regular skis, skiers often use skis suitable for fells or forests. Many pieces of equipment can be the same as during an autumn hike, as long as there is enough warmth while you move and while you sleep.

Ski touring is not particularly a specialized technical sport – knowing how to hike and ski is enough. And if you know the basics of winter hiking, you can embark on a ski tour. Pallas-Yllästunturi is also well-suited for solo skiers.

Ski touring in Pallas-Yllästunturi National Park – My journey

I arrived at the visitor center's parking lot around ten in the evening, unloaded my ski touring gear from the car, and skied under the moonlight to Pallaskota Lappish hut. I found a suitable spot for the tent right near the kota. At that moment, the sky filled with radiant green swirls – magnificent northern lights crowned the ski tour before it had even begun!

The temperature was around -30 degrees Celsius (-22 ℉) when I arrived, and it continued to drop. Despite wearing a woolen base layer, down clothing, two overlapping warm sleeping bags, and two pads, I woke up shivering throughout the night in my tent.

The brisk weather persisted in the morning. I dried my gear in the warmth of the kota (where people had stayed overnight, and the warmth still lingered) while enjoying oatmeal. At the same time, I packed the day's lunch into the food thermos. I set out on the ski tour in glorious sunshine around half-past nine.

Skiing over Pallastunturi fell

The pulk smoothly followed behind towards Taivaskero fell in a steep and icy slope. However, I quickly realized my mistake from the previous winter when I had trimmed the skins to make the skis glide better. In the icy slope, the grip wasn't enough to pull the sled even with all my arm strength.

Midway up the slope, I parked the sled behind a pole and took off my skis, loading them onto the sled. I could easily pull the load up while walking, and I didn't even break a sweat despite wearing a lightweight down jacket. Higher up, the wind was so freezing that I had to wrap my face in wool.

It took three hours to reach the saddle between Taivaskero and Pyhäkero fells and the signpost for Taivaskero from Orava Avenue. Having accumulated sleep debt from two nights already, I took an energy-boosting lunch break right away. The food thermos offered overcooked and somewhat aged lukewarm noodles, but they served their purpose.

In retrospect, I regretted not visiting the summit of Taivaskero fell at this point, even though I had conquered the magnificent fell on a previous Hetta-Pallas trek.

Rihmakuru Lappish hut

The icy slope seemed to slope sharply sideways and downwards towards the Pyhäkuru gorge, famous for avalanches. I focused on swiftly skiing towards flatter terrain as when the speed of the pulk dwindled, it tended to slide in the wrong direction. Fortunately, the slope leveled off on my side as I reached the saddle between Taivaskero and Lehmäkero fells.

Next, the descent towards the Rihmakurunvaarat hills began, speeding down the slopes of Lehmäkero fell. At times, the pulk found faster tracks, zooming past me, and despite my shouts, it always curved in front of me. I'm glad I didn't fall (except once), and apparently, no one witnessed this carefree downhill ride.

The final descent towards Rihmakuru looked quite challenging. Gathering mental courage, I admired large lynx tracks in the snow. Eventually, I decided to turn away from the summer trail to the left, into a slightly gentler slope, where I could enjoy the thrill of speed more comfortably.

I ended up on a maintenance trail coming from the west of Rihmakuru, which ascended to the Lappish hut kota through the gorge. Along the hard track to the woodshed and dry toilet, my foot occasionally sank through. The depth of the snow was amazing.

There was still a small ember in the kota's fireplace. I added a couple of logs to the embers and kept the fire alive enough to melt water on the stove. Exhaustion hit ruthlessly around six, and I decided to take a nap in my sleeping bag.

The nap extended to an hour and a half. I admired the beautiful sunset and contemplated a suitable tent spot. The thermometer showed -30 degrees Celsius again, and I was cold. I found a suitable campsite and shelter from wind on the wide bench inside the kota.

During the night, the lovely northern green lights returned to dance in the sky with thousands of bright stars. Photography was once again challenging with frozen fingers and watery eyes from the cold. And especially sleeping was impossible as the aurora show just kept going!

Nammalakuru reservation hut and wilderness hut

The morning dawned before eight, brilliantly clear and cold. The goal for the day was to ski to the Pahakuru wilderness hut. First, I would make a detour to Nammalakuru huts.

The Pallas-Nammalakuru trail can be skied in winter along the ski track on the west side, east side, or the summer route over the fells. The distance from Rihmakuru is about three kilometers (1.86 miles) along the summer route.

Someone had recently skied the Hetta-Pallas trail, and the ski tracks were deep in the snowdrifts. I didn't have to climb very high before the lightweight down jacket and fleece moved into the backpack. The initial part of the trail was a steep ascent in soft and deep snow, a sweaty sport as the sun warmed the sheltered slope.

I had to crawl without skis and pull the pulk through the deep snow up one short but steep slope. After that, it got easier – the snow was harder higher up. Wind also picked up on the fell, so I put the fleece back on. The challenges of winter trekking: regulating temperature all the time (although personal needs may vary).

It was pleasant to ski down the slopes of Jäkäläkero fell. Only an arrow from the summer route poles was visible, if even that. The slope sloped so sharply to the left towards the gorge that my pulk finally fell over. I saw a lonely skier higher up on Jäkäläkero and wondered how wonderfully quiet it had been so far.

Nammalakuru hut was empty and bright, with a faint glow in the fireplace hinting at overnight visitors. I took a cocoa break in the warmth of the hut. Soon, a couple of skiers arrived, and it was time to continue the journey.

Several ski tracks branch out from the Nammalakuru wilderness and reservation hut in different directions. Towards Montellinmaja, a wide track ascended past Pikkuvaarat hills on the west side of Saivokero fell, first up to the saddle, and then rapidly descending towards Montellinmaja.

Montellinmaja and route to Lake Vuontisjärvi

Montellinmaja area was bustling with people and snowmobiles. The small Montellin maja hut, owned by the reindeer herding cooperative and serving as a wilderness hut for a long time, is no longer open. However, a new Lappish hut kota and dry toilets have been built next to it as a rest area open to everyone.

You could continue past Montellinmaja towards Vuontiskero and Keräskero fells, descending between the fells to Lake Keräsjärvi on the west side, or continue over Vuontiskero and Lumikero on the Hetta-Pallas summer route. Since I still felt somewhat weak, I decided to ski down to the shore of Lake Vuontisjärvi and head to Pahakuru gorge along the easy trail, the actual winter route.

In summer, there is a hiking trail between Montellinmaja and Lake Vuontisjärvi called the Montelli’s Fell Tour. In winter, the ski trail coming from Nammalakuru was a speedy descent all the way to Lake Vuontisjärvi.

The trail gently curved to the right just before Montellinmaja and soon branched off. After a brief moment of contemplation and exploring the map, I chose the track on the right, which, of course, led too far south and was steep. I fell, just a little.

I skied a stretch on the frozen Lake Vuontisjärvi, where a magnificent chain of white fell tops was beautifully outlined against the blue sky. I soon returned to the ski trail, which ran right along the shore of Lake Vuontisjärvi. Posts with markings punctuated the winding ski trail through the spruce forest.

The trail turned right just before Tynnyrivaara hill, near a fence. Perhaps I could have taken a shortcut through the gate, but that direction seemed to have deep snow. I circled around Lake Tynnyrijärvi and its southern swampy area.

Passing through the large gate of Hommakangas was easy. The trail was in excellent condition, and it was pleasant and easy to glide on level ground. I encountered more people than I had in a while, and their friendly encouragement for the ski journey brightened my mood.

Skiing to Hannukuru via Varkaanjärvi Lappish hut

After Tynnyrivuoma, the trail meandered through the forest, and more prolonged or steep ascents and descents began. I managed the hills climbing slowly uphill and with a speedy descent, hoping no one would ski against me in the curves. Ski trekking didn't feel very ‘wilderness-like’ on a prepared ski-track.

I made a short detour to Varkaanjärvi Lappish hut. The view from the hut's doorstep to the afternoon sun around Lumikero fell was spectacular. In the warmth of the sun, I didn't even need to make a fire; I just ate noodles from the thermos and continued skiing.

A long stretch involved pushing on level ground along the west shore of Lake Suasjärvi. The sun had already begun to set behind Suastunturi fell. Skiing on the east side of the fells means missing a beautiful sunset, as the trail goes on the shaded side.

After passing Suaspalo, the winter route gradually started to ascend and curve towards the slopes of Suastunturi fell. According to the map, there was about a two-kilometer continuous ascent. The trail circled the entire northern side of Suastunturi fell, ascending.

The ascent was either steep or extremely steep, and with the pulk behind, it felt like it weighed a hundred kilograms. When it finally started to ease, I noticed a sign on a pine trunk: “Dangerous descent”. Where could I get a sign with text "Painful ascent"?

The sun appeared again, and golden rays swept over Hannukuru on both sides. Peering over the gorge towards Pahakuru, the wilderness hut did not seem visible yet. The ski trail first led windingly to Hannukuru's huts.

I rushed down with the pulk, turning right towards Hannukuru, where the trail climbed to the other edge. Eventually, the route curved towards the sunset to Lake Haukkajärvi, where I could already see Hannukuru's wilderness and reservation huts and kota.

There was movement at the wilderness hut high on the slope. The snow-covered cabins likely hosted many skiers. Hannukuru's sauna is probably as popular in winter as it is during summer and fall hikes. Perhaps someday I should experience a wilderness sauna, although I might prefer splashing in a wilderness lake more than sauna bathing.

Skiing from Hannukuru to Pahakuru wilderness hut

The clock ticked relentlessly towards the evening darkness, so I continued swiftly towards Pahakuru. The ski track continued eastward, and I didn't know if the winter route would lead all the way to Pahakuru hut. On the summer route, proper ski tracks were visible, so I followed them instead.

The winding through the drifts for about one and a half kilometers didn't take much time, but in the last ascent, I had to pull the pulk up with all my strength. In fact, the ascent was not the last: it led straight down to the bottom of the gorge right in front of Pahakuru wilderness hut. The slope from the gorge was vertical; there was no hope of skiing, at least not while pulling a pulk.

The sun had already set, and the horizon glowed orange against the blueish snow. In the dusk, I first took the skis up, then the gear to the hut bag by bag, and finally dragged the pulk up. The pale pink sky darkened rapidly.

There was no one in the hut, and it wasn't very warm. First, I set up the fire in the stove. It was probably more than -30 degrees freezing again. The wind had also picked up, and there was a strong gust outside. I had to dress in a hat and gloves even for a short trip to the dry toilet.

I enjoyed the night's silence and the atmosphere of the wilderness hut in candlelight (left my own candle stub for the next hut visitor). On a cold night during a previous autumn Hetta-Pallas trek, I stayed in a tent in Pahakuru's yard and watched the world's most fantastic auroras. Now, I was more than happy to be protected from the cold in the warmth of the hut. Faint auroras appeared in the night as a narrow horizontal line.

In the morning, I got to enjoy an unbelievably beautiful sunrise, coloring the blue landscape with orange, red, and yellow. This is how I want to remember the northern winter now and always. My Lapland!

Before departure, I melted snow and boiled water for the thermos, packed up, and cleaned the hut. My journey would continue back towards Pallastunturi – this time on a proper ski trail that circled the northern edge of Pahakuru gorge, descending towards Hannukuru. From the direction of Hannukuru, I encountered the first group with a pulk on the whole trip.

Skiing at Hannukuru huts

At Hannukuru, I skied back and forth, alternately studying the information board's map and searching with my own map for the starting point. My intention was to climb from Hannukuru to Suastunturi fell, but near the wilderness hut, only faint ski tracks were visible in deep snow on the summer route. I quickly scrambled back to the yard from the edge of the gorge.

I felt a deep weakness in my legs as I thought about trudging through the gorge and then dragging a heavy pulk in the sinking slope—probably with skis on top of the pulk and sinking waist-deep in the snow. I decided to go around the entire Suastunturi fell on a snowmobile trail and ascend the fell to Lumikero later.

I found a good track at last: the trail ran through the gorge and then turned left towards the west side of Suastunturi. The trail was relatively flat, with some small bumps. My boots felt like they had shrunk, and my feet ached.

The snow was full of rabbit tracks. The sun had been shining from a cloudless sky for the third consecutive day. It was the most wonderful weather for skiing but challenging to capture.

At some point I realized I was on the wrong trail going too far from the fells. I saw a sign for Suastupa and took the intersecting trail to the left. The trail indeed led to the private Suastupa, not to Suaskuru Lappish hut, where I was heading. Fortunately, a snowmobile trail started across Lake Suasjärvi towards the Lappish hut—outside the trail, I sank into the snow despite my skis.

Suaskuru kota and Nammalakuru ski trail

Just before Suaskuru Lappish hut, a wide track arrived from the direction of Hannukuru. I don't understand how I missed it. Suaskuru's kota was much more comfortable than I remembered from the Hetta-Pallas autumn trek. I made a small fire in the hut, and had lunch. It was fantastic to rest my sore legs in the rocking chair.

After the break, I went to see what the route up to the fell looked like. There was some kind of deep trail going up, and there were no traces of a pulk. However, my condition was still so poor that a steep ascent in the snow seemed far too laborious. I decided to continue on the ski track and ascend the fells between Vuontiskero and Keräskero to Montellinmaja, from where I would descend to Nammalakuru.

From Suaskuru, I finally found the right trail, which ran along the west side of Lumikero fell. The route was smooth skiing, perhaps a bit monotonous. I arrived at a trail intersection where 'Mont' and an arrow towards Vuontiskero were written in the snow.

I soon arrived at another point where the old winter route had apparently passed. In the deep snow, perhaps one or two ski tracks were visible towards Keräskero fell. I decided to follow them.

I looked at the fells ahead. I needed to climb a steep slope. It was quite late. How long would it take? Would it already be dark before I even reached Montellinmaja? How would I manage in the dark with skis sliding on the slopes and my thighs turning to mush? There was still a distance to Nammalakuru. What if the hut was already full? I would have to pitch a tent in the dark at freezing temperature.

With too many disturbing thoughts, I turned back to the flat track. I would ski it leisurely and head to Rihmakuru instead of Nammalakuru. It wouldn't matter to arrive at Rihmakuru only in the dark since I already knew the tent sites.

Finally, I arrived at the intersection with the sign for Nammalakuru. I turned towards the final stretch of the day. It would be five kilometers (3.1 miles) to Nammalakuru's wilderness and reservation hut, one kilometer less to Rihmakuru's kota. There should also be a maintenance trail to Rihmakuru because I remembered seeing one.

On a straight stretch of the trail, the sun had already set behind me before I reached the intersection where the trail from Pallastunturi turned towards Nammalakuru. I pushed gently up the ascending trail for a kilometer and found a spot to turn towards Rihmakuru. Eventually, I found a narrow snowmobile track that was firm enough to ski.

Initially, I descended to the bottom of the gorge, where a challenging task awaited me uphill. I had to herringbone step the entire length of the gorge. Sometimes the slope was so steep that I had to ascend sideways. The narrowness of the trail made herringbone stepping difficult; the skis sank deeply outside the trail.

Then the trail branched. I looked at the map; one spot on the left seemed steeper, so I chose the right trail. How did I always get these things wrong? The trail on the right rose higher on the south side of the gorge, where I had descended rapidly on the first day.

The sky glowed burnt orange and deep Lapland blue behind the silhouettes of the fells. I kicked the last stretch and the last herringbone step to Rihmakuru's kota. I would probably have reached Nammalakuru sooner.

The kota was empty. I had planned to camp tonight, but the continuous severe cold, darkness, and the persisting flu-like feeling did not entice me to shovel and set up the tent.

I put a modest amount of wood in the stove. Small fires create just as much atmosphere, and in any case, the kota is warmer than a tent. The faint auroras in the night gradually blended into the incoming clouds.

The final stretch of the ski tour to Pallas

On the morning of the fourth day, the sun was just a memory. The wind was already stronger, indicating a snowstorm. The fell peaks had disappeared into the white. There would be no possibility to take the summer route anymore—fortunately, I started the ski trek by crossing the magnificent Pallastunturi fells.

I cleaned the kota, whittled some splinters, packed, and set off towards Pallas, now on that other track. Descending from Rihmakuru was almost as difficult as climbing, in the steep slope. My legs hurt so much that I couldn't ski down slowly plowing. I took off my skis and led the pulk like a large pulling dog.

It was enjoyable to ski back to the intersection on the gently descending trail from Nammalakuru. The comfort ended almost immediately because ahead awaited steeper and longer ascents in the middle of the spruce forest. Fortunately, the firm trail allowed me to ascend with a herringbone step.

The snowstorm began around the same time. Everything quickly turned white. The trail disappeared almost entirely. Skiing would have been miserable without ski goggles covering half of my face and a large hood.

My plan was to end the ski tour at Pallas and camp again near Pallaskota, but a little before Pallas, I decided to take an extra detour towards Mäntyrova wilderness hut. If the wilderness hut was empty, I would avoid setting up the tent again—this time, the excuse would be a snowstorm instead of the cracking cold.

The ski trek in Pallas-Yllästunturi National Park was over. In the following days, I would try to conquer Palkaskero fell with snowshoes, adventure on Särkitunturi fell, and undertake a small ski trek at Lake Keimiöjärvi. And plan at the same time for summer adventures, perhaps to Aakenustunturi fell—there is always a good reason to visit the Muonio region!

My experiences from the ski tour in Pallas-Yllästunturi National Park in March

• In the fells, the snow is firm, and skiing with a pulk is quite effortless, but downhill, the speed can become quite intense.
• A pulk pulled with a rope works well both on groomed trails and in the fells. However, in icy slopes, and especially when the snow conditions vary, the rope pulk may get a bit wild.
• It requires a lot of effort to get uphill with the pulk, especially if you are only partially fit (yeah, avoid ski touring while having a flu!). You should also have full-length climbing skins on the skis (not trimmed).
• Even in winter, the weather can surprise you—be prepared for all conditions. Often, in early spring, nights can be warmer than midwinter, but in the end of March, the frost can crackle even at thirty degrees below zero for several days.
• It's a good idea to bring proper ski goggles. They save you from both the blinding sun and snowstorms.
• Pallas-Yllästunturi is one of Finland's most popular national parks, even in winter. There are many people, especially in larger huts accessible by well-maintained trails. However, during a ski trek, there may be days when you don't see other people.
• You may not necessarily need a gasoline stove on this ski trek because there are a lot of huts, and camping in winter is allowed only near designated rest areas. Melting water in a hut or kota is easier, and you can prepare food in a thermos for the day. However, I recommend bringing a gasoline stove just in case you have to camp in the middle of nowhere. Winter gas tends to freeze at temperatures below 20 degrees (-4℉).
• Knowing the basics of winter hiking is advisable, even if you're just skiing on established ski tracks.
• On the Hetta-Pallas route, there is mobile network coverage in many places. However, it's essential to remember that in severe cold, the mobile phone can quickly freeze.
• Pallas-Yllästunturi National Park and the Hetta-Pallas hiking route (the winter trail) are suitable for a first-time ski trekker. The route has a comprehensive hut network, many trails, and maintenance tracks, and settlements are nearby—it's easy to exit the route if necessary. In Pallas-Yllästunturi, it's also easy to practice winter camping near the huts.
• You can ski the entire Hetta-Pallas route on the winter or summer trail or ski part of the route in the fells and part on the trail, e.g., skiing a circular route.
• Leaving from Pallas, nice places for overnight stays and campfires are Pallaskota (camping in the yard) and Mäntyrova wilderness hut. At the foot of Pallas, there is also a hotel from which you can make overnight ski trips or day trips to reservation huts.

Links

Nationalparks.fi – Hetta-Pallas winter route

Ski Map: Muonio area (Pallas-Nammalakuru)

Ski Map: Raattama area (Pallas-Vuontisjärvi-Hannukuru)

Ski Map: Hetta trails (Hannukuru-Hetta)