Koli National Park in the North Karelia region in Finland offers stunning sights and many activities year-round. The view from the Koli peaks is one of the official national sceneries in Finland. There are around 80 km of marked trails, and a few kilometers of marked snowshoeing routes during winter. The best sceneries in Koli require steep hill climbing and traversing through forests.
Snowshoes are much better option than skis if you are planning to hike the Koli peaks, but there are also around 50 km of ski trails for cross-country skiing adventures. Ukko-Koli offers challenging slopes for downhill skiing as well.
Winter hiking and snowshoeing in Koli is all about nature sports and relaxing time in crown-snow sceneries. I made a winter hiking trip with snowshoes to Koli National Park in December. I also tested the Ikolanaho rental hut.
Snowshoeing to Ryläys
Ryläys hill is a great starting point for a visit to Koli. Ryläys is located in Kontiolahti outside of Koli National Park, around 8 km from Ukko-Koli. Although Ryläys doesn’t belong to the national park, the marked and popular Herajärvenkierros hiking trail runs through Ryläys. From the Ryläys parking area (in the north of Herajärventie road) it’s a bit under 2.5 km to the top of the hill.
When I left my car to the empty parking area and headed to the snowy forest, the temperature was around -27°C. I knew that a thick down coat would be too warm for snowshoeing with a trekking backpack, but it just felt too cold to wear anything else. At least it was much colder than on my first winter hiking adventure in Syöte National Park. The sun had been shining all day long while I was driving, but now it was already hiding behind the treetops.
The Ryläys trail is well marked with blue paint on the trees. The first stretch of the trail runs through a forest and ascends and descends moderately before arriving to wooden stairs. Just before the stairs there’s a sign to a spring, but water is not drinkable because of some bacteria.
After climbing the stairs around mid-way of the trail, prepare for steep hill climbing. In the winter the rocks and roots are icy and slippery, and if there’s a lot of snow, it makes climbing quite tough too, especially with a heavy backpack. Some spots could be easier to climb with just winter boots and crampons instead of snowshoes.
The last stretch of the trail comes to a mire and most of the climbing is done by now. The trail leg through the mire is built with wooden planks. Now there was maybe 30 cm of soft snow on top of the duckboards, and it was impossible to see where they are under the snow. I stepped “a few times” off from the duckboards, sank deep into the powder snow, and scrambled to get back to the trail.
Days are really short in December in Finland, just a few hours of daylight. I reached the Ryläys Lapp hut and fireplace when the blue sky had turned into soft pale pink and the sun had set on the horizon of the beautiful white winter wonderland. After sweating with the trekking backpack climbing up the hill, the early evening started to feel a bit chilly.
There were some tracks on the trail, but mostly the place was covered with thick new snow. I couldn’t spot a nice place for pitching my tent, and since I was alone in the forest, I decided to sleep in the Lapp hut instead.
Sleeping in a Lapp hut – a magical experience
What is a Lapp hut? A Lapp hut is a traditional Finnish or Sámi forest hut. It’s a closed shelter that usually has benches along the walls in a circle and a fireplace or stove in the center of the hut.
The Ryläys Lapp hut provides seating for at least 20 persons and overnight facilities for 6-10 persons (sleeping on the benches and on the floor). There were also smaller benches around the stove, and a big wooden table.
First thing to do was to warm up the hut by making a fire. I was very happy that someone had left a few logs of firewood in the Lapp hut, as the huge logs in the shelter were covered with ice and snow. I went back and forth, chopping more logs by the shelter and carrying them to the hut near the stove to dry. It was such a cold night that I was really grateful for all the warmth the fire provided.
I made tomato soup with bread for dinner, and hot chocolate with cinnamon bun for dessert. I had brought 2.5 L hot water in thermos bottles, which wasn’t quite enough for an overnight hiking trip. So, I went outside to scoop some snow in my kettle. An easy tip to make more drinkable water fast: pour hot water to a cup and fill it with snow. Take clean snow from a spot that is a bit further from buildings and trees (and very far away from the dry toilets).
I had hoped to see a dark blue sky with bright stars, but it was snowing already in the early evening, so I went back inside the hut.
I sat by the fire reading a book in silence. Then I made an extra pile of firewood and carved small sticks and had them dry next to the fire. I hope the next visitor was as happy as I was when visiting Ryläys and finding ready-made firewood. Finally, I crawled into my sleeping bag and gazed at the fading flames and said good night to myself. Sleeping in a Lapp hut was such a magical experience!
Snowshoeing on the snowy hills at Ryläys
In the morning, the Lapp hut was cold and dark, windows covered with snow. I set up a small fire and put my sleeping bag hanging on a cord to dry. My breathing had melted ice on the walls during the night and my sleeping bag was moist.
I had breakfast by the fire and waited until there were no more flames before I went snowshoeing. I left my stuff in the hut as the Ryläys trail is a ring route coming back to the hut.
The trailhead to the top of Ryläys hill is next to the Lapp hut and there’s also a wooden sign pointing at that direction. I could see some old traces going up to the hill. There was a lot of snow, but it was quite a short and easy trail along the steep hill.
From the top of Ryläys you can see amazing sceneries, even if it’s a grey and cloudy day. On the left Lake Jerojärvi, on the right Lake Herajärvi, and between the lakes the hills and dense forests.
On the top of Ryläys hill there’s also a steep boulder wall, like a waterfall but made of rocks. On the natural sights of Koli there are no handrails and traversing the lookout points is at one’s own risk. Since the wall is steep and I couldn’t see anything under the snow, I thought it was safe to stay away from the cliff edge.
I continued hiking the Ryläys route, marked with blue and orange paint spots on trees. It’s not an easy task when the tree trunks are white from frost and all you can see is just white all around you.
I followed some animal traces since they tend to use the same hiking trails but ended up off the trail. I hiked in the deep snow and enjoyed the quiet forest. I tried to navigate to the observation tower, but the cliffs were difficult to climb up in snow, and eventually, my route meandered back to the trail near the Lapp hut.
I didn’t have much daylight left, and since I was going to Ikolanaho in Koli National Park, I decided to just go get my stuff and hike back to the parking area before dark. Ikolanaho can be reached also by foot from Ryläys: walking on the road around 5 km, or walking through a forest around 3.5 km.
Staying at Ikolanaho rental hut in Koli
It took a while to survive the snowy roads that hadn’t been ploughed, and I almost got stuck in snow at the crossroads of Jerontie and Kotaniementie by Paimentupa. The large Peiponpelto parking area is the closest one to Ikolanaho meadow and it is also maintained during winter. There’s a sign to Ikolanaho at the trailhead nearby, and it’s a 700 m ascend up to the Ikolanaho rental hut.
The trail is not maintained during winter, but the rental hut is popular and it’s likely that someone has been there before you.
The Ikolanaho rental hut is a small and modest forest lodge with bunkbeds for four people, table and two benches, gas cooker and gas, lights and USB socket, and a fireplace to warm up the room. There are some pans, pots, and cutlery in the kitchen area, and mattresses and pillows in the beds – having your own sleeping bag is a good idea.
There’s also a folder with detailed instructions for using the soapstone fireplace and other facilities. During my stay it was almost -30°C degrees and it took a long time to warm up the room so that my frozen food and water melted. I was happy to have a winter sleeping bag, as the temperature was only few degrees in the hut and the stone wall was cold already in the morning.
At Ikolanaho the stack of firewood is in a shelter next to the Mäkrä trail and the logs are ready to burn. But carving a pile of thin wood slices with a knife helps setting up the fire. The dry toilet is in a forest around 100 m distance from the hut. For some reason I felt that it was a bit unpleasant to go there when it was dark, and I was alone in the hut. The howling wind that banged the window hatches and the key box outside didn’t help much.
During my stay there were some candles, matches, a knife, toilet paper, and washing liquid, but you should bring your own since these aren’t included in the facilities. You should also bring all the water you’ll need as there are no wells nearby (water from Ikolanaho well is not drinkable even after boiling!). When you leave, you should fill the firewood basket, clean up everything and leave nothing (except candles and matches) for the next guests.
I had moved one of the benches in front of the fireplace to keep warm while the hut was still cold. The soapstone releases warmth only after closing the damper, which can be done after the fire is completely burned out. In other words, it’s either enjoying the beautiful fire in a cold hut or enjoying a bit warm hut without the fire.
I had planned to climb up to Mäkrä hill with a head torch if the sky was bright for night photography, but since the weather had turned windy and cloudy, I stayed at the hut the whole evening reading and knitting. And listening to those cracking and banging sounds in the darkness.
Snowshoeing the Koli Peaks winter trail
The most famous route in Koli National Park goes to the scenic views of Finland’s beloved national landscape. All the top lookout points, Ukko-Koli (347 m), Akka-Koli (339 m) and Paha-Koli (334 m) are located under 2 km distance from each other and from the Koli Nature Centre Ukko.
There’s no maintenance on the trails during winter, but the destination is so popular that the main trails stay open most of the time, and it’s also possible to hike the Koli Peaks route without snowshoes.
The Koli Peaks trail is well marked. When you start the hike from the Ikonlanaho meadow, hike the Koli Peaks route, and return back to Ikolanaho, the total distance is about 6 km with 245 m ascend.
Although there’s no general winter maintenance on the Koli trails, there was a maintenance track going through a spruce forest all the way from Ikolanaho to Koli. I crossed a small brook by a snow bridge, hiked across the Mäkränaho meadow and came to a signpost pointing towards Koli. Taking the trail to the right side leads to the first peak, Paha-Koli.
Paha-Koli hill is easy to hike, and the views are scenic especially at sunrise. I didn’t see any rays of sun, nor any signs of other people. But the winter landscape was beautiful.
Continuing a few hundred meters from Paha-Koli towards Koli Nature Centre takes you to Ukko-Koli, the highest peak. If it has been snowing but not windy, you’ll see candle-shaped spruces covered with thick crown-snow against the scenic lake view. There’s a campfire site called “the Prime minister” open for everyone, but firewood needs to be purchased from e.g., the Nature Centre as there’s no firewood on the site.
The stairs leading up to the vantage point of Ukko-Koli hill are really slippery and the hill can be icy as well. If you don’t have snowshoes when climbing up the hill, use crampons or studded shoes and be extremely careful. After climbing the icy steep steel stairs to the lookout point with snowshoes, I’d say studded shoes could be the best option.
Akka-Koli has the best spots for sunset gazing with views down to several lakes and forests. By the time I reached Akka-Koli the winds were cold and hard, and the scenery was mostly various shades of white and grey. I went to the Temple of Silence, a natural stone formation that is a wedding venue, and saw a lot of frozen pink roses on the rocks covered with light snow.
I had planned to have lunch on the rocks of Akka-Koli, but it was not exactly a picnic weather and I headed soon back to the trail to Ikolanaho.
The snowshoeing trip took a couple of hours, and by the time I reached Ikolanaho hut, it was already sunset time. I sat on the hut stairs and had my late lunch before going inside and starting to warm up the frozen hut again. After a couple of hours of reading by the fire and closing the damper, I went outside. The night sky was clear and dark blue, with thousands of beautiful bright stars shining above me.
I just stood there in the middle of the meadow, taking night sky pictures and enjoying the astonishing silence.
Mäkrä winter trail
The trail to Mäkrä hill goes through the Ikonlanaho open field, right next to the hut and the firewood shelter. The trail ascends moderately through a forest a few hundred meters before coming to a signpost. Turning to the left leads up to the top of Mäkrä hill. The views from Mäkrä to Lake Pielinen and to the high hills might be even more stunning than the views from the Koli Peaks!
There were some footprints on the trail but mostly it was snowshoeing in knee-deep powder snow, sometimes deeper. There’s a lot of variation in elevation on the Mäkrä trail, and the steepest trail leg is on the Koli Peaks side of the hill. Since there’s no winter maintenance on the Mäkrä trail, snowshoeing is easier than hiking by foot.
It was going to be a bit brighter day (the day I was leaving, haha) and there was a hint of pink and blue in the horizon. The trees were covered with heavy snow, and I immersed myself in the quiet landscape.
I made a one-hour snowshoeing trip at Mäkrä hill and went back to Ikolanaho. In the backyard of the Ikolanaho hut there’s a fireplace that anyone can use, not just the guests of the rental hut.
I set up a fire outside and grilled bread rolls with spruce tip pesto and pickled cucumber. Then I cleaned up the last bits of the hut before leaving and returning home.
My December adventure in Koli National Park had been a great combination of beautiful landscapes, outdoor sports, fresh air, mindfulness and relaxing time – a holistic wellbeing experience!
Tips for winter hiking and snowshoeing in Koli National Park
- The days are short and oftentimes dark in December-January. Start your trip when the sun rises and carry a head torch with you.
- The trails have plenty of elevation variation – snowshoeing in Koli is both slow and great exercising. A thick down coat will be too hot even if it’s -30°C degrees!
- The most popular route for snowshoeing is the Koli Peaks trail that starts from the Koli Nature Centre. There’s no winter maintenance but the trail is relatively easy for snowshoeing, and it’s likely that someone has been there before you.
- The Mäkrä trail on Mäkrävaara hill is also a scenic route for snowshoeing. It’s accessible from the Peiponpelto parking area and Ikolanaho, from Koli Nature Centre, and from Rantatie road.
- Ryläys is close to Koli National Park and the destination is more peaceful than the Koli Peaks area. The Ryläys Lapp hut is really nice for overnight stays and the views from the top are worth visiting the site.
- The Koli trails are great for solo hiking. However, there are no handrails on the lookout points and hiking on the cliffs is at one’s own risk. You should be extra careful when there’s a lot of snow and the cliffs are icy, especially if hiking or snowshoeing alone.
- Some of the campfire sites have firewood available (Vaaralanaho and Ikolanaho), but for example, to the ‘Prime minister’ campfire site at the Koli Peaks firewood needs to be purchased and carried yourself.
- Some of the parking areas are maintained and ploughed during winter, but there are usually fewer spots for cars. Some of the roads may be challenging to drive during winter (e.g., Jerontie and Rantatie).
- Many of the scenic snowshoeing routes in Koli are suitable for day trips.
- For longer winter hiking and snowshoeing trips there are various overnight facilities in Koli National Park and in nearby destinations. You can rent a forest lodge, sleep in a tent or in a Lapp hut, or stay in a hotel next to the Koli Nature Centre.
