Pirunkuru in Ylläs, Lapland, is a steep and rugged gorge on the side of Kesänkitunturi fell. The Kesänkitunturi hiking trail, Pirunkurun ponnistus, rewards the keen trail runner or hiker with majestic fells and lake scenery.
Kesänki, located in the Pallas-Yllästunturi National Park, rises right on the shore of Lake Kesänkijärvi, next to Kellostapuli and Yllästunturi. There are a couple of rest stops and a café along the 8 km route.
The mid-summer night sun paints the fellsides a glowing gold. The air is clean and nature is beautiful on the trails of Ylläs.
Ylläs trails
Pallas-Yllästunturi National Park and its surrounding areas are ideal for long hikes, shorter day trips, trail running and other activities, depending on the season. There are over five hundred kilometres of marked hiking trails. The most popular long hiking route is the classic Hetta-Pallas Trail, which can be continued all the way to Ylläs.
The Ylläs trails take you to beautiful landscapes on the tops of fells, steep gorges and clear-water lakes. The trails are easy to access and clearly signposted.
In addition to Kesänkitunturi, popular trails and attractions in Ylläs include Aakenustunturi and Moloslaen kierros Trail, Kellostapuli and Varkaankuru, Kukastunturi, Lake Kesänkijärvi and Saivonkierros.
Kesänkitunturi
Kesänkitunturi fell (517 m / 1696 ft) rises on the shore of Lake Kesänkijärvi. On the other side of the lake are Kellostapuli and the slopes of Yllästunturi fell.
The Kesänkitunturi route, the Pirunkurun ponnistus Trail, is 8 km (5 miles) and the estimated hiking time is about three hours. A relaxed trail run takes a couple of hours.
The route around Kesänkitunturi is classified as moderate.
Pirunkuru
Pirunkuru gorge is one of the most popular attractions in Ylläs Lapland. The ascent of Pirunkuru is a steep rocky slope, but the stones are small and the climb is not particularly difficult.
You don't have to walk the entire eight-kilometre Kesänkitunturi trail to see the gorge, as you can reach the foot of Pirunkuru on an easy path. Mountain biking is prohibited on Pirunkuru.
Pirunkurun ponnistus Trail has also been known as Tähtipolku Trail (Star path). There are small boards along the way that teach you about stars and Northern Lights. You can see stars only in August, as the mid-summer sky is still too bright.
Pallas-Yllästunturi National Park
Pallas-Yllästunturi National Park is one of Finland's oldest and most popular national parks, and the silhouettes of the Pallastunturi fells are one of our most beloved national landscapes. The most famous long distance hiking trail of the national park is the 50 km Hetta-Pallas hiking trail. From Pallas, the hiking trail continues all the way to Ylläs.
Pallas-Yllästunturi currently has only one visitor centre, located at Ylläs. Yllästunturi Visitor Centre Kellokas is located in Äkäslompolo, address: Tunturintie 54.
Parking and trailhead of Kesänkitunturi
The trails of Lake Kesänkijärvi start from the parking lot of Lake Kesänkijärvi, address: Sahatie, Kolari. The road is not numbered, but signposts and Google Maps will help you find your way. The car park is quite spacious and free of charge.
There is a signpost and a map of the Kesänkitunturi area at the edge of the parking area at the trailhead. A short stretch of dirt road leads to the lake shore. At the end of your run or hike, you can take a dip in Lake Kesänkijärvi from the pier, and the water is guaranteed to cool you down.
Pirunkurun ponnistus - route description
The gravel path plunges into dense and lush forest. The trail runs right along the shore of the lake, so the first few kilometres are gently rolling on flat ground. The dense forest hides most of the lake and fells scenery.
Lake Kesänkijärvi café
Just at the eastern end of the lake is the Kesängin keidas café. In July, the café was open from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Before the café, the path turns to the lakeside pier, where it's nice to take a break and admire the finally open lake scenery.
Between the pier and the café, the path continues to the right for the Lake Kesänkijärvi trail. The six-kilometre lake hike is also ideal for trail running.
Kesänkijärvi hut and campfire site
Continuing straight on for about 20 metres, you come to the Kesänkijärvi Lappish hut. Behind it is a fireplace under the shelter. The rest area also has a wood store and dry toilets. Finding a campsite can be a little tricky.
The trail begins as a gentle, rudimentary climb through a forest of lush fir trees. Behind the trunks, the dark outlines of the fell are visible. The roots quickly give way to sharp rocks. At the same time, the Pirunkuru gorge rises straight ahead.
Pirunkuru
The first part of Pirunkuru's ascent hides in the shadows of the forest. There are more stones, sometimes you have to cross fallen tree trunks. The rocks crumble in places, but the climb is by no means particularly difficult. There are hardly any trail markers, but the route goes right through the middle of the gorge.
When the treetops start to drop below you at around 360 metres, it's a good time to catch your breath. After ascending the Pirunkuru gorge, your feet may be a little exhausted, but the stunning scenery down from the Kesänkitunturi fell will reward you.
The narrow Lake Kesänkijärvi sparkles far below surrounded by majestic fells. The shores are fringed by a magnificent coniferous forest. The rocky slopes of Kellostapuli and Yllästunturi ripple grey against the sky.
The boulder field seems to go on and on upwards in different shades of grey and pink. The gorge curves around a bend, and as Lake Kesänkijärvi and Yllästunturi take over the landscape, the first ascents of Pirunkuru disappear from view.
About 13 kilometres northeast rises the beautiful Aakenustunturi fell. However, you probably can't see all the way to Aakenustunturi from behind Kesänkitunturi's rearmost peak.
From the Pirunkuru viewpoint, you could turn back downhill and follow the Kesänkijärvi lakeside path to the car park, shortening the walk to about 5-6 kilometres. Pirunkuru's stone cairn may be a little more difficult to walk down than up, but you don't have to walk the whole Kesänkitunturi loop to see the best views.
Tahkokuru hut and campfire site
From the Pirunkuru scenic spot, it's about a kilometre to the next rest stop, Tahkokuru hut. The Pirunkurun ponnistus Trail does not go right up to the highest points of the fells, but through the saddle between the two peaks of Kesänki.
At the highest point of the route, however, there is a pile of rocks. If you are going counter-clockwise, it is worth taking frequent turns to look in the direction of Yllästunturi and Kellostapuli. The mid-summer night sun can illuminate the whole fellside in a magnificent golden light!
A gravel path has formed in the low rocky slope, making it easy to descend the gentle slope to Tahkokuru's hut. In addition to the Lappish hut, the rest area has a wood shed, dry toilets and a fireplace with excellent evening sun views. If you're not on a fast trail running trip, in good weather it's worth lingering at Tahkokuru for a snack and a view.
From Tahkokuru onwards, the trail is downhill and easy on gravel. Almost immediately after leaving the hut you dive into a beautiful coniferous forest, which continues all the way back to the parking lot. Half a kilometre further on, the path forks right towards Hangaskuru hut.
Along the way, you can build up your knowledge of nature and thunderstorms. An exciting detail towards the end of the trail is that the distance to the Kesänkijärvi parking lot increases by one kilometre: when other destinations are either a kilometre closer or further away, the lake is always two kilometres away.
Other trails great for trail running and hiking in the Pallas-Yllästunturi National Park area:
